Gjoa Haven

Andrew Arreak says travelling on the ice — the main highway in Canada's Arctic — provides access to the land and food, connects communities and is part of Inuit identity.

A member of Parliament from Nunavut says she won't forget the smell of mould that permeated through houses she visited across the territory last year.

It's cool and cloudy as Don Sessions, wearing a toque and a good, solid jacket, hops off an inflatable boat that has ferried him from his cruise ship to shore.